I got up around 8 and went down to my included breakfast. After checking out around 10 I finally posted the postcard I had written in Paris. Then I got back on my bike, crossed the bridge, and set off into Germany. I had set Lake Constance as my destination. I messaged a WarmShowers host there but he was busy. I don’t know where I’m going to sleep when I get there, or tonight. What fun.
***
I’m writing this sat with a tankard of cheap (4.5 euro) beer at a pub in Woltach (?), a beautiful old style walled town. A jet plane just whizzed overhead at great speed. It’s 15:15.
This morning consisted of cycling by the Rhine for a while, then turning off to follow the bottom of a beautiful, wide valley. Wooded hills slope away on either side, and the vista ahead is long and green, punctuated by fields, train tracks and vineyards. Occasionally I pass through a small town. There was a Lidl in one and I bought some cheese, bread, Fanta and a banana for lunch. I trundled along for another couple of hours before stopping on a bench in the shade of some trees and a Jesus statue, to eat. I finally used my knife to cut bread and cheese. It was very pleasant. I’ve been listening to “Between a Rock and a Hard Place”, by Aaron Ralston, and it’s somehow made me more comfortable with solitude. Weird that.
Today could be described so far as thoroughly pleasant. Let’s hope it stays that way. Here’s hoping this midday beer isn’t a mistake!
***
The ease of the day swiftly dissipated after that entry. I found myself climbing a huge hill for around 45 mins. Surprisingly my body felt very up for it, though I did stop a couple of times to eat some smurfs and finish off my bread and cheese. Once I had topped out I found myself cycling through fields and some modern style towns. Much of today was spent on cycle paths next to major roads. I took that risk when I chose to go direct.
Around 6:45 I reached Rotweil (where the dog comes from?) and chose a restaurant where I’ve just eaten a very filling meal of pork, mushrooms and german noodles. I plan to camp by the Eisbach tonight… if I can find it.
***
I cycled out of town, through farmer’s fields, past a tractor, and down into some woods by the river. Then my maps got me lost. It seems to be a theme in Germany that fallen trees block every woodland path. Today was no exception. Not only that, but google had traced a map across the river to a campsite some way up the opposite bank. Fuck that.
I wheeled back into the more sparsely wooded area and decided to just set up camp there. I cleared away sticks and animal poo, set up my tent, then went for a “swim” in the river. In reality I dipped myself in and used some soap to have a wild shower [bath]. After that I got changed again, panicking when I heard what sounded like nearby voices. No-one materialised. [A while] later and I was sat by an extinguished fire-pit reading my book as the sun went down. A german man wondered along the river and I said hello. Then I went to bed, to a largely comfortable sleep.
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