Today was defined by beauty and water. Lots of water, both above, below, and inside my shoes.
I got up at 6ish, dried out my tent, bought some snacks from Lidl, and set out [Leaving my charging plug at the campsite!]. Most of the morning was spent following the Inn river on gravelly cycle paths. It was pretty enough, but my right shoe had not dried out at all from the night before. I started in flip flops, but eventually bit the bullet and put my shoes on, not having a sock within the sodden one.
At 11:30 I found I was following the Via Claudia Augusta, the old roman route across the Reschen pass and the border with Switzerland. I crossed the river at an old castle and cycled painfully up to the road, my wheels spinning in loose gravel and scree. At the top I found a sign telling me I was not allowed to cycle direct to Nauders, and had to wait for a shuttle. Some research in the shade showed me a Komoot route via Switzerland. So once again I crossed the river and back into Switzerland I went! Once up on the road I found myself speeding down the smooth road, through tunnels and towards towering mountains. That was a fun section. Eventually, just before the crossing into Austria where I would face an endless climb I stopped at a café/shop, ate an Oreo ice cream sandwich and replenished my water.
I then started the climb. It was long and hot, but due to its winding nature it was nowhere near as steep or hard as the climbs yesterday. At times I had to manoeuvre around grass cutters and tractors, but eventually, at 2, I reached the top. Only 1415 m. I soon stopped, ate the rest of my cheese and bread, then climbed to Reschensee at last!
Country 6: Italy
Thunder and lightning began as I approached, and just as the lake came into view it started to pour. I stopped in the shelter of a barn roof, ate an apple, and waited for the worst to pass. Then on I went, the rain still dropping and soaking through my shoes and coat. I stopped a while by the submerged church to get a photo and read some info, then at a café to dry off and get a small beer. The rain mostly slackened after this and I continued on my way.
The rest of the day was delightfully, and almost without exception, downhill. I put on “The Man Who Would be King”, “POTC” and the Beatles greatest hits as I soared down cycle paths, through woods, past lakes and homes and churches. It was magnificent. Orchards and apricot groves opened up on either side as I got lower. I really am in Italy (though people still seem to be speaking German?).
Finally, just after 6, I stopped at a campsite, set up my tent, showered and got a beer. However… horror of horrors! I realised I’d left my charging adaptor back in the previous campsite. Shit. Shit. That was a good adaptor. I’ll have to get another one tomorrow, and hope I have enough charge to get me to Bolzano. The stress never ends!
I went for a pizza, which was quite soggy, then went to bed. Around 11 I awoke to find myself swimming in water. My guess is either that my leaky bottle fell over or, more likely, that I lay on the end of my camelback and it had poured out. I had to hurriedly gather my electronics and spend ten mins squeezing out my towel and wiping up the water from the tent floor. It luckily was surprisingly effective. It took me a while to sleep last night. Thoughts of C entered my head again. I guess that’s bound to happen now and then.
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