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Day 35: Split to Makarska, August 5th.

Wet and stress. That’s what sums up today. Up and out at 9 to find all the shops closed for victory day. I cycled out of the city and stopped at a campsite Studenak which happened to be open and absolutely packed, to pick up some snacks. Soon I was cycling along a nice river path which turned into a difficult walking path. As it did the rain began to pour. I sheltered under a tree with half success as everything I owned became soaked through. I listened to a podcast about the apocalyptic fall of Saigon as I did so. It seemed somehow appropriate. When the rain had slackened, I continued on, now on a main road, but the rain returned heavier than before, and this time I had nowhere to shelter.


I wheeled my bike up a literal river running down the street, and eventually found a café in which to shelter. I got a tea and chatted to an Australian Croatian man, who it turned out owned the place. He was, however, a little deaf. I discovered to my dismay that my ziplock containing all my electronics was full of water. That would come back to bite me. The Australian told me I shouldn’t be doing what I’m doing. He seemed very concerned. When the rain slackened he popped over to his house and picked up a couple of plastic bags and an umbrella for me. I was very grateful.



After that I continued on my sodden way, cycling through epic hills, tunnels, under high bridges, and through quaint towns. The roads became very serpentine, both up and down and soon I found that these conditions and rain don’t mix.


The fall was painful but only resulted in a few cuts and scrapes, and no obvious damage to the bike. After many kms of up and down these hills I found myself at a spectacular beach. This turned out to be Brela, which Lisa had told me of. It was sunny now so I stopped and had a lovely swim.





I tried to charge my phone. I failed. I was on 10%. Shit. All attempts to charge it from restaurants etc. failed. Shit. Stress. Stress. I cycled on down possibly the most pretty part of the cycle so far, literally along beaches and atop cliffs dropping into the sea on white clay paths and through bowed ancient trees. I photographed none of it. I had to save battery. I was mostly concentrating on not crashing into the crowds of pedestrians on the sea front. I must have looked very desperate and dejected figure. 2km outside of Makarska I looked on google maps where my accommodation was. It was nearby. My phone died. Shit.


Then, by some miracle, the portable charger worked. I almost cried with joy. I found my accom – it is the nicest so far [and also the most expensive]. A room and a bathroom to myself, double bed, hob etc. My wall socket [plug] isn’t working [due to water damage] so I borrowed one from the hosts. I’ll have to get a new one I suppose. 


I finally checked my old inner tube and found 3 more punctures in it. Not worth fixing. I called dad and told him all my problems. He was helpful. Thanks to him I’ve booked a hostel in Dubrovnik tomorrow. It’s 180km away. Damn. Long day to come. The shops are still closed so I got a tuna steak and a beer by the beach, picked up some snacks from a petrol station, back here, and this. Now to a restful sleep… I hope…


A Tuna steak and chips by the sea

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