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Day 64: Meteora to Kozani, September 3rd.

It was cooler this night, so I slept relatively well. I was up, packed and out by 9:30. I stopped in town for a spanakopita and snacks, then I was off, up into the hills. Today was only 115km but it was the most elevation gain of the whole cycle, including the alps (allegedly) – 2574m. I passed by a couple of monasteries again, then climbed up and up out of the valley to endless false summits.


For the first time in a while it became quite rural and barren. I passed no shops all day. I went through a few small towns and villages, and was able to fill up my water from a public tap. I also got chased by several dogs, as is usual these days. I seemed to go only up almost the whole day. The downhills were short, and there were lots of short, high altitude rolling hills. However I was glad to be past it all until….


Shit! Fuck! Bollocks! I’d forgotten to check out that morning, and my passport was 90km behind me, over some mountains. I cycled the next 30km or so in a state of agitation. The campsite wouldn’t answer my calls, and the websites for the bus schedules to get back were all in Greek.


I got to my hotel at 6:20. The owner – or receptionist – Harris, was very helpful. He checked the website for me and reassured me I could stay for a while if I needed to. He let me put my bike inside (I also accidentally smashed a lamp when I arrived, but I didn’t mention that).

Later, as I was preparing to cycle into town to speak to the bus people, a guest at the hotel – Panos – who had lived in London for a while and so spoke passable English, convinced me to simply get the campsite to send it by courier tomorrow, and not to worry about it tonight. Instead, he bought me a beer, and we chatted. I ordered Pizza, and he bought me a few more beers. He was a nice guy – works in driving, in his fifties, doesn’t trust the government.

Later we got chatting to the people next to us and they bought us both a beer too – lots of “yamas!” that night. I drank a lot of free alcohol. Panos has diabetes and shouldn’t drink or eat bad food. He drank a lot of beer and ate a pizza. I hope he is okay.


He was supposed to meet me at 8:30 the next day and help me sort stuff. It’s now 9:45 as I’m writing this, and he still hasn’t showed.


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