I’d set my alarm for 5. When it woke me it was still very dark outside. I wanted the classic shot of me unzipping the tent so I set it again for 5:45, then 6. By 6 I was up.
I ate some brioches I’d bought in Tesco the day before, then packed. I was off by 7 but spent twenty minutes at the top of the hill, the back of my bike suspended from a fence by a cord, attempting to fix my gears. I needed a spanner I didn’t have to make it work properly. Initially all I succeeded in doing was making it so I could no longer get into top gear either. Once I’d fixed that I decided not to risk it again and continued on my way.
It was spitting on and off all morning. I recrossed the motorway and headed down to a canal where I saw a huge sculpture of the sun – the centre of a solar system walk, which extended both ways along the canal. I followed this route for a while but only spotted Neptune and Uranus.
I had low energy and stopped a lot this morning. Mum called me while I was stuck between cars on a quiet road in need of a QR code so she could pick up a laptop I’d ordered. Spotty internet made this difficult, but eventually I got it to her. I bought a couple of pastries in Lidl (classic), scared some horses, then continued for miles along quiet roads and canals.
At one point I reached a closed road. If I couldn’t go down it I would have to take a huge detour adding miles. The workers noticed me and waved me through the barrier. Thanks guys.
I decided to take a small deviation from the route to visit Holcombe Rogus. Some family friends had lived there when I was young and I had fond memories of it but hadn’t visited in many years. I explored the whole town looking for their house. In my memory it was on a very steep street. In reality, when I found the house, the slope was very mild. When I was young I had watched a box car race down this street, and I cycled down it pretending I was in a pirate ship or a bathtub.
I left the town and took a long canal path all the way to the outskirts of Tiverton. Here I went to a smoke house for food and charging. I was very excited for my burger but it wasn’t up to much. I’m there now, writing this.
***
I left that restaurant at 15:00. I cycled along long canal paths through Tiverton then along quiet roads into the countryside. Halfway up a steep hill my dodgy gear seemed to just start working! What a day.
I listened to music as I approached Exmoor and began to climb. It took a while to get up the hill. I passed another cyclist. He seemed annoyed. Later he passed me. Fair enough.
As I reached the top the CamelBak ran out of water. Oh no. My phone was also low on charge. It seemed I may be stuck on Exmoor with no water or power. I shut off my 4G and music to conserve energy. I cycled in silence for a while, then took a desperate look on my map. It was getting late. I spotted The Poltimore Arms just off my route. A pub. Life-saver.
I cycled on for 10 minutes through desolate moors and barbed wire farmland, then I turned left and down a hill. It was a steep hill – and fast…
I reached the pub and walked in. Everyone went quiet and looked at me. After a moment or two they returned to their conversations. An old woman behind the bar welcomed me, gave me a pint of excellent Exeter ale and led me to a room with sofas and charging ports. She also told me I could camp for free in the pub garden, and that food was free tonight as it was the owner’s birthday.
WTF. God is on my side.
I plugged things into sockets and chatted to the landlord. He told me he’d leave the door open overnight so I could use the bathroom and make myself a cup of tea in the morning. I heard him say to a patron “if someone knocked on your door in the morning and asked for a cuppa you wouldn’t charge them would you?”
The patron said “I wouldn’t answer the F-ing door.”
He told me it was downhill all the way to Bude. Others in the bar echoed the sentiment. Good news and good news. I was just lucky I had one fiver in cash to pay for the pint. It was probably lucky I could only afford one, or tomorrow might be harder.
I wished the boss a happy birthday, wrote this, and now I’m going to put up my tent.
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